Colonial Nashik
This period had a profound impact on the lifestyle of the people as there was a larger change at the level of the society. The British colonial period in Nashik ushered a series of infrastructural changes. These are among the most significant markers of this historical period. For example, the Victoria bridge built in 1895 connected Panchavati and Nashik. Earlier, the river could only be crossed by boats docked at the Nav Darwaja. The introduction of the bridge connected the city and shaped the way in which the city has developed. The bridge has played an important role ever since. Apart from larger infrastructural changes such as the introduction of this bridge, smaller buildings such as bungalows sprang up in different parts of the city. These changes have played a significant role in the making of Nashik.
The coming of British rule was in parallel with the introduction of Christianity to the region. The Soldier’s Handbook to the Deolali District, from 1945 reads:
“The needs and numbers of the Church Mission Society grew throughout the years, until the Rev. W.S. Price in 1855 founded the Christian village of Sharanpur- City of Refuge- two miles west of Nasik.”
The settlement of Sharanpur eventually grew, including the establishment of St. Andrew’s Church and the addition of missionary bungalows and cottages for the christian families. More churches were established, including the St. Thomas Church at Shalimar. There was a growing community of Christians in the city. The Church Mission Society played an active role in shaping the Christian community in the city.
Apart from the establishment of Sharanpur, Deolali cantonment was an addition made during the colonial period. Following the suppression of the uprising of 1857-58, India directly came under the British Crown, from the hands of the British East India Company. The suppression of the uprising was soon followed by the establishment of multiple cantonments throughout the country as a counterinsurgency tactic. Deolali was favoured for its location and climate. It served as a training ground for incoming British, who would come to Mumbai or Bombay, and travel to Deolali. It was declared as a military cantonment in the year 1867. Deolali saw multiple additions over the years, with the railway siding being one of the most important. It was eventually declared as a first-class Cantonment Area in the year 1942.
Some of the most recognisable landmarks of our city belong to the colonial period. Nashik is well known for its Currency Note Press. But did you know that this was initially established during the colonial period? It was in the year 1922 that Nashik was decided upon as the place for the printing of stamps, postals, etc. The building of the security press began in the year 1924 and by November 1925, the printing began. However, the printing of currency began only in 1928 (The Soldier’s Handbook to Deolali District, 1945). Through this series, we will look at some more stories and buildings built during the colonial period in Nashik and Deolali.
Deolali was also a major medical treatment facility. It was a “Royal Army Medical Corps” station that served the British Army. Soldiers who were facing various health issues were sent to Deolali for treatment. Lieutenant Colonel J. G. McNaught of the Royal Army Medical Corps, who served in Deolali for three years, noted, “After the moist heat of Bombay, Deolali with its cool nights and crisp morning air was a welcome change” (Journal of the Royal Army Medical Corps, Vol. LXVIII, 1937). There were two general hospitals in Deolali during the colonial period. One was in the cantonment barracks, and the other in the infantry barracks. The need for medical facilities was greatly intensified during the World Wars. During the First World War from 1914 to 1918, the “34th Welsh General Hospital” was set up to treat British troops who had served in the war. Later, wounded Turkish prisoners of war were also stationed in Deolali. The medical facilities drastically grew and housed hundreds of patient beds during this period. The cantonment’s healthcare facilities again came to attention during the Second World War.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, there was a considerable focus on the design of hospitals. It was believed that diseases would spread through the air, and thus, hospitals must be well-ventilated. Hospitals with beds stacked in a linear row soon developed. The spaces were cross-ventilated, i.e. with windows opposite to each other. One of the old photographs of a ward in Deolali shows such an arrangement. This was a common practice in designing hospitals during the colonial period. This also indicates how ideas of design travelled across geographies and impacted the developments in different regions across colonial networks.
As the cantonment and its requirements grew, it required more resources. One may think, where did the water for sustaining this new cantonment come from? It has been recorded in some personal accounts that initially, the water was sourced from small wells in and around the settlement. These wells are also marked on a map of the cantonment dating from 1871-72. As the cantonment population grew, water was diverted from the river Godavari, filtered, and then used by the inhabitants. Similar infrastructure developments led to the expansion of the Deolali Cantonment.
Readers familiar with Deolali would perhaps be interested in knowing more about some colonial-period buildings. Multiple churches were established in the cantonment: The Garrison Church, Christ Church, and St. Patrick’s Church. The Parsee Fire Temple in Lam Road was opened in 1916. One of the schools that immediately comes to mind is the Barnes School in Deolai. The school was actually located in Bombay and shifted to Deolali in 1925 (The Soldier’s Handbook to Deolali District, 1945). Apart from this, many sanatoriums from the colonial period still function in Deolali.
When it comes to discussion history, there are many facets that can be looked at and many stories that can be told. Driving through Deolali, one comes across many interesting structures and their stories from the past. Deolali, which started as a small settlement of a few houses, an officer’s mess, a hospital, a local bazaar, and burial grounds arranged along a few parallel streets, eventually expanded in the 20th century.
Once the cantonment of Deolali was established in the 1860s, houses for the British were also made. Later, as the cantonment grew and its population increased, more and more houses were built. If one takes a walk near the temple-hill, both the sides of the Dhondy Road are aligned with a series of colonial bungalow houses. These houses are placed on considerably large pieces of land and share some typical features. They are set in at a distance from the road. This cuts down the disturbance from the road, also leaving space in the front for lawns and vegetation. These bungalows are usually built in stone, have pitched roofs, and covered with clay tiles. They also have verandas and backyards. Importantly, during the colonial period, there was a larger change in concept of the house itself. For example, in traditional houses, there was no concept of having separate bedrooms. This changed in the Bungalow typology, where bedrooms were introduced. Another example is the inclusion of the toilets in the house. Having toilets within the house was a taboo and unacceptable. Colonial residences included the toilets in the house. This was later adopted in our buildings and today we can hardly imagine having to live in a house with toilets outside. Thus, we see that our houses and the way we live in them has a long history of change, and some of the practices can be traced back to the colonial period.
An old postcard from 1900 captures the Dhondy Road. In the photograph, one can see multiple bungalows. Lieutenant Colonel J. G. McNaught, who had served in Deolali from 1895 to 1896, and 1900, returned for a visit to Deolali in 1918. On his visit, he noted that there were many more troops in Nashik and Deolali than before. This seems to have been a consequence of the expansion of the Deolali Cantonment during World War One. He also noted that there were many new bungalows built below the temple hill (Journal of the Royal Army Medical Corps, Vol. LXVIII, 1937). In the postcard mentioned before, one can see unbuilt pieces of land. These seem to have been eventually built upon. Thus, the development along the Dhondy Road seems to have majorly happened in the first two decades of the 20th century. Eventually, the Zoroastrian Parsi Boarding School and the Grand Hotel were also built on the Dhondy Road. There was also a Temple Hill Club and a golf course. A row of trees was planted along the Temple Hill Road. Even as we drive through the cantonment area today, we find rows of trees lining the roads. Deolali also had cinemas. Namely, the Cathay Cinema, Garrison Cinema, and the Munro Cinema (A Guide for Travellers in India, 1947). Other facilities in Deolali included the “Government Telegraph Office” in the market area. The building still exists and is under the Department of Post.
Another important development that happened along the Lam Road, on the way to Deolali, was the building of sanatoriums. These were primarily built for people recovering from some medical conditions. The climate of Deolali was favourable and the surroundings peaceful, thus it made a suitable place for recovery and rest. One of the major sanatoriums to have been built was the Dr. Kaikhshru Bahadruji Memorial Sanitorium which was erected in 1902. It consisted of 30 blocks, of which 17 were reserved for T.B. patients. The plans of the sanatorium were brought from America and the buildings were made accordingly (The Soldier’s Handbook to Deolali District, 1945). It also has a library and recreation building that was erected in 1910. The buildings in the sanatorium are very well ventilated. They have a ventilator at a higher level in the rooms. This allows the hot air to rise and escape, keeping the interior spaces cooler. The sanatorium is still reserved for the Parsi community. There are other sanatoriums along the Lam road which cater to other communities.
Sharanpur
Nashik came under British rule in the year 1818. Rev Gordon Hall was the first Christian missionary to have arrived in Nashik in the year 1826. The initial missionaries were stationed at the Sarkar Wada in Old Nashik. The Sarkar Wada had been the administrative centre of the city during the Maratha Rule. One of the major institutions involved in the establishment of Christianity in the city was the Church Missionary Society or the CMS. They started sending missionaries to India in the year 1814, and they sent three missionaries to Nashik in the year 1830 (The Soldier’s Handbook to Deolali District, 1945). Over the years, there were more missionaries who visited and stayed in the city. One of the major developments was the establishment of the “Christian Village of Sharanpur.” Yes, you read that right, “Sharanpur” as a “Village.” It was not a part of the city centre, and was at some distance from the city, 2 miles west of Nashik as per an account. Rev. W.S. Price founded the village in 1854-55. Sharanpur literally means “the city of refuge.” So what do you think would have been some of the initial buildings to have been built in Sharanpur?
Any Christian establishment would typically have a Church or a Chapel for the members of the community to pray. They would also need houses to live, so bungalows and cottages were made. A school was also made for their children to go to. A workshop and industrial centre were also erected. This workshop has been noted to have trained a large number of artisans as carpenters, blacksmiths, and bricklayers (Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency, Vol XVI, 1883). An orphanage was also provided for. This initial set of buildings expanded over the decades as the population of the village grew. The mission also ran a farm on which the Christians of the village worked. It has been noted to have yielded corn, millets, sugarcane, oranges, mangos, and also had vineyards (The Church Mission Gleaner, Vol IX, 1882).
The St. Andrew’s Church was built in 1893 and is among the most recognisable colonial structures in the city. The church is built in stone and its wooden trusses support a pitch roof. The church has become an important landmark in Sharanpur and serves as the centre for community activities and events for the Christians. The Christmas celebrations are one of the most prominent events at the Church. Other religious spaces catering to the Christian community were also erected. For example, St. Philip’s and St. Ann’s Church served the Christian community near Nashik Road. There is a St. Thomas church near Shalimar, which completes 100 years this year! From 1923 to 2023.
Any Christian establishment would typically have a Church or a Chapel for the members of the community to pray. They would also need houses to live, so bungalows and cottages were made. A school was also made for their children to go to. A workshop and industrial centre were also erected. This workshop has been noted to have trained a large number of artisans as carpenters, blacksmiths, and bricklayers (Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency, Vol XVI, 1883). An orphanage was also provided for. This initial set of buildings expanded over the decades as the population of the village grew. The mission also ran a farm on which the Christians of the village worked. It has been noted to have yielded corn, millets, sugarcane, oranges, mangos, and also had vineyards (The Church Mission Gleaner, Vol IX, 1882).
The St. Andrew’s Church was built in 1893 and is among the most recognisable colonial structures in the city. The church is built in stone and its wooden trusses support a pitch roof. The church has become an important landmark in Sharanpur and serves as the centre for community activities and events for the Christians. The Christmas celebrations are one of the most prominent events at the Church. Other religious spaces catering to the Christian community were also erected. For example, St. Philip’s and St. Ann’s Church served the Christian community near Nashik Road. There is a St. Thomas church near Shalimar, which completes 100 years this year! From 1923 to 2023.
In the year 1860, the CMS opened an African Asylum at Sharanpur. After the abolishment of slavery, the situation of Africans living in the country came into question. Young Africans stayed at Sharanpur, and were trained at the school. They were majorly taught Marathi and Hindi. Some of them were chosen to learn English. They undertook religious studies and were also trained as artisans in the workshop. Later, they were sent as missionaries to different parts of Africa such as Kenya. The African Asylum was closed in 1874. In 1874, there were 42 Africans living in the Asylum (Pastors, Partners and Paternalists: African Church Leaders and Western Missionaries in the Anglican Church in Kenya, 1850-1900, 1997). We see that Nashik had assumed an important role in the education and training of some of the early Christian converts in Eastern Africa. Thus, Nashik was not only connected to cities such as Mumbai and Pune, but had developed links to different parts of the world. This included Africa, America, Australia, Canada, etc. As we know, this was the beginning of globalisation in the modern world, and traces of this are prominently found in the history of our city.
Along with these developments, a library was opened in 1840, which is now more popularly known as the Sarvajanik Vachanalaya. The library is the oldest in the city and has seen generations of users benefit from its collections. Other typologies, such as hospitals also came up in the city. Do you know how the name “Canada Corner” came into being? There is a building within the current BSNL Office complex, which was earlier the Canada Hospital. The Canada Hospital was established to majorly serve the needs of women and children. Nashik had more such institutional buildings that catered to the needs of the British and the city’s residents. As we go ahead, we will look at some more of these buildings and their histories.
Old Mumbai Agra Road
Previously we looked at the development of Sharanpur Village, which was then considered outside the village, but now is very much a part of the city. We will now look at some other important developments that happened in the city during the colonial period. The Bombay-Agra Road connected Nashik to Bombay, and many buildings developed along this road, between the stretch from Ashok Stambh to Trimbak Naka. This also marked the considerable southward development of the city. The city and its development today has some of its roots in the developments that happened during the colonial period. One of these developments is this axis and the buildings that sprang along it, such as the District Court and the Government Girls High School. These buildings are set at a distance from the road and give us a foreground to see them from a distance.
The District and Sessions Court was established in 1884 and began operations from 1885. Just to put this in perspective, the Victoria bridge did not exist at this time, and was only built in the following decade. This two storied stone building is flanked with wide passages and corridors all along. It has typical semicircular arches. The building seems to have undergone multiple changes in recent years. These changes have impacted the building and it is becoming more apparent that these structures need focused and concentrated conservation efforts.
Just opposite to this building is the Government Girl’s High School. This building is interesting for multiple reasons. It is a long elongated building with wide verandas and passages facing the road on one side and connecting the row of classes on the other. The building has strong Indo-saracenic elements. There are two staircases, both having domes above. The cantilever flight of steps within these stairwells is remarkable for its construction. One wonders how such heavy stone steps have been interlocked and have remained as such for about a hundred years. Another interesting feature of this building is the use of jack arches for its passages. Jack arches was a prevalent construction technique used during this period. It required the laying of I-sections parallelly, with brick vaults between them. This was then finished with concrete to complete the slab. This construction technique helped reduce the consumption of cement, which was not as easily available then as it is now. The fenestrations of the building are also well articulated. There are at least three kinds of arches that have been used in the making of the building, the pointed arch, the segmental arch, and the flat arch. The architectural details of this building are well designed, intricate, and carefully executed. Architects, engineers, and history enthusiasts would find this building interesting.
The colonial period not only saw the development of institutions, but also the making of other public spaces, such as the Jackson Garden. “Jackson Garden” is perhaps not a name that many of you would have heard of, or are familiar with in the context of our city. This garden was renamed the Shivaji Garden, and still goes by the same name. It lies to the left while going from Shalimar to CBS (Central Bus Stand). Swatantra Veer Savarkar addressed a big meeting in this garden, unveiled a statue of Shivaji Maharaj and announced the change in name. This is among the oldest gardens in the city and holds significance in its history. Nashik also served as the headquarters of the Royal Western India Golf Club. The Golf Club opened in 1890. The Golf Club plays an important role in the city’s public infrastructure till date, after over 130 years of its establishment.
One of the identities that Nashik has recently been associated with is its title of being the “Wine capital” of the country. Nashik's climate has remained favourable for vineries since the past. Even during the colonial period Nashik was home to wine production. Large Government vine-yards were located along Trimbak Road. Today the wine industry has extensively grown and it plays a major role in the economy of the city.
The District and Sessions Court was established in 1884 and began operations from 1885. Just to put this in perspective, the Victoria bridge did not exist at this time, and was only built in the following decade. This two storied stone building is flanked with wide passages and corridors all along. It has typical semicircular arches. The building seems to have undergone multiple changes in recent years. These changes have impacted the building and it is becoming more apparent that these structures need focused and concentrated conservation efforts.
Just opposite to this building is the Government Girl’s High School. This building is interesting for multiple reasons. It is a long elongated building with wide verandas and passages facing the road on one side and connecting the row of classes on the other. The building has strong Indo-saracenic elements. There are two staircases, both having domes above. The cantilever flight of steps within these stairwells is remarkable for its construction. One wonders how such heavy stone steps have been interlocked and have remained as such for about a hundred years. Another interesting feature of this building is the use of jack arches for its passages. Jack arches was a prevalent construction technique used during this period. It required the laying of I-sections parallelly, with brick vaults between them. This was then finished with concrete to complete the slab. This construction technique helped reduce the consumption of cement, which was not as easily available then as it is now. The fenestrations of the building are also well articulated. There are at least three kinds of arches that have been used in the making of the building, the pointed arch, the segmental arch, and the flat arch. The architectural details of this building are well designed, intricate, and carefully executed. Architects, engineers, and history enthusiasts would find this building interesting.
The colonial period not only saw the development of institutions, but also the making of other public spaces, such as the Jackson Garden. “Jackson Garden” is perhaps not a name that many of you would have heard of, or are familiar with in the context of our city. This garden was renamed the Shivaji Garden, and still goes by the same name. It lies to the left while going from Shalimar to CBS (Central Bus Stand). Swatantra Veer Savarkar addressed a big meeting in this garden, unveiled a statue of Shivaji Maharaj and announced the change in name. This is among the oldest gardens in the city and holds significance in its history. Nashik also served as the headquarters of the Royal Western India Golf Club. The Golf Club opened in 1890. The Golf Club plays an important role in the city’s public infrastructure till date, after over 130 years of its establishment.
One of the identities that Nashik has recently been associated with is its title of being the “Wine capital” of the country. Nashik's climate has remained favourable for vineries since the past. Even during the colonial period Nashik was home to wine production. Large Government vine-yards were located along Trimbak Road. Today the wine industry has extensively grown and it plays a major role in the economy of the city.
The plaques on the building are of particular interest. They mention the names of the various people who held different offices during the time, and commemorate different events. On one of the plaques, it is mentioned that the cost of construction of the building was Rs. 1/-. Can you imagine that the construction of such a magnificent building was only one rupee? Well, there is a story that the people in and around will tell you if you visit the building and speak to them. According to one version of this story, the contractor was unable to meet the due date to complete the construction of the building and was only paid One rupee for the job! Striking as this may sound, you can visit the building and find the plaque near the entry and look for yourself. Another plaque in the building commemorates the visit of John Colville, the then Governor of Bombay, on the second of February, 1944. When we visit old buildings, we should also try to find out stories of its making and its past. These are often found in such clues, such as the plaques in the case of the NMC building.
The building is architecturally very interesting too. It is made of stone and has R.C.C. slabs. The building is asymmetric. Different types of arches have been used in its construction, such as the pointed arch and the semi-circular arch. What makes this building interesting is the stylistic influences on its architecture. The column capitals are ornamented with flower and leaf motifs. The inclusion of different motifs across the building hints at influences of the Indo-saracenic style of architecture. This influence is seen in the style of the clock tower as well. But the parapets, railings, and grills of the building tell a different story. These have a strong influence of the Art Deco movement. This style originated in France and had a great influence on the way buildings were being made in India in the 1920s onwards. The Art Deco style was widely influential in the making of buildings in Bombay and also influenced the making of buildings in Nashik. So what are the features of Art Deco? To start with, try to identify motifs representing sun and sunrays. This can be seen in the metal railings of the staircase of the NMC building, as well as in the precast cement concrete parapets of the terrace. They show radiating lines, a typical Art Deco feature. There are more such features that can be found in the building. Art Deco buildings came up in the area in the following decades and can be seen in the theatres built in the area. Thus, there is a hybridity that can be seen in the making of the NMC building, which makes it very unique.
There is also a large hall towards the rear side of the building. This hall is double storied and has galleries overlooking the space below. Not many would know that the building also has a basement. Though we pass through the road often, we do not necessarily know some of the interesting facts and spaces within the building. One of the remarkable features that the building has is its clock tower. The clock tower is a prominent feature which would have been visible from afar and would have been very iconic at the time. The clocks do not function anymore and parts of the building have fallen into disrepair.
The NMC building is in need of repair and conservation, along with other colonial buildings in the city. This series of articles is a small attempt to bring to light these buildings and their histories. The District court building, Government Girls School, building of the Canada Hospital, St. Andrew’s Church, Old NMC Building, are all still in use and are a part of the city’s colonial history. It is now up to us to visit them, engage with them, and decide the future of these buildings.
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Article 6
Samruddha Mogal